Any shoe designer worth his salt takes notes from Vivier, says Felloni. “His aesthetic was ahead of his time and that’s why most of his designs are studied today. He invented heels that were like sculptures and his work continues to inspire not just me but most designers.”
The Belle Vivier Cuissarde collection arrives, of course, at a peculiar time. The clients of haute couture – those very lucky few able to buy the fashion industry’s most exceptional (and expensive) pieces – are mostly grounded by travel restrictions. Events where couture might have been worn – galas or grand weddings – are mainly on pause. July’s couture runway shows were held digitally.
And yet, as the coronavirus pandemic prompts people to question their values or seek escape from the gloom, there seems to be a newfound appreciation that things of value should take time. Even if you’re not part of the 1 per cent buying couture, you can appreciate it. As Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri told The Business of Fashion of the maison’s commitment to couture: “We need beauty to look to the future with optimism and willingness.”
Felloni agrees there’s a focus on quality and craftmanship. “I think that consumers today, not just Roger Vivier’s clients, are more careful in what they buy and how they consume,” he says.
Next month, Felloni will present the Roger Vivier spring/summer 21 collection, Hotel Vivier Cinématique, to press and influencers during Paris Fashion Week.
Meanwhile, Felloni, a trained tenor, talented interior decorator and collector of vintage jewellery – over and above a career designing accessories at Miu Miu, Dior, John Galliano, Raf Simons and Roger Vivier – is not giving up on glamour and beauty. Both, he says, are relevant in this strange and restricted year.
And unlike some pundits, he does not believe these homebound times spell the end of high heels. “I think you can wear high heels also at your place … Why not?” he says.
“After this strange period, we [will] all be evolved, but we will not forget about beauty.”
Monsieur Vivier would surely be relieved to hear that.
NEED TO KNOW
The Belle Vivier Cuissarde boots range in price from $4690 to $14,910. The Viv Cabas capsule collection bags range from $13,920 to $33,640. Inquiries: (02) 9221 8888.